Posts Tagged ‘resistance to Franco’
Barcelona’s El Fossar de la Pedrera
I first read about El Fossar de la Pedrera (“the Quarry grave”) in Michael Eaude’s excellent guide to Barcelona. Writng in 2008, Eaude points out that there is no mention of “the Quarry grave” in any of the standard guides to Barcelona, and then goes on to describe his encounter with Barcelona’s Tourist Office who proclaimed no knowledge of the “the Quarry grave”. It was exactly the same for me when I went looking September last (2010). Like Eaude I was directed to El Fossar de la Moreres, which is a monument related to the siege of Barcelona in in 1714! Despite repeated efforts to explain to the guide at the tourist office about El Fossar de la Pedrera and its connection to the Spanish Civil War, I had no luck. However El Fossar de la Pedrera is marked clearly on many of the good maps of the Barcelona area. I used Michelin’s current Barcelona map and made my way there on foot. It is a long walk admittedly but I got there. For more information see my post Getting to El Fossar de la Pedrera.
El Fossar de la Pedrera was the location for Franco’s bloody revenge against those who had stood against him in the Civil War and afterwards. It was a place of execution and is now the site of a mass grave exclusively connected to the Spanish Civil War. As a place of execution it was chosen for a number of reasons. Firstly because of what it was – the quarry was the ‘common’ or paupers’ grave in Barcelona and for this reason it provided the executioners with an easy and reliable method for the disposing of the bodies of their victims. On execution the dead fell down into cut away section far below and were left there to be buried in unmarked common graves. Something like 4000 people died, and are buried, at El Fossar de la Pedrera – resistance fighters of all hues, from anarchists to republicans; residents of Barcelona who had stood up to Franco and fascism; prisoners of war from the Civil War itself. Indeed many who just showed defiance and resistance to the dictatorship ended up here. The second reason why the ‘Quarry grave’ was chosen was due to its remote location – being on the south side of Barcelona’s Montjuic Cemetery (or Cementiri del Sud-oest in Catalan). Lastly, the execution site was within easy reach of Montjuic Castle where many were held before their execution.
Today El Fossar de la Pedrera is maintained as a memorial to those who fought Franco. Entry is via the main cemetery, but the ‘Quarry grave’ itself is in its own remote corner pinned between cliffs – separated from the main cemetery.
The entrance is marked by steps and rows of tall, square columns. On closer examination one can see the names of the thousands who were executed here, chiseled into the stonework. After you pass through these stark columns one can see the scene of execution clearly ahead. At the very back, the cliff is high above the base of the quarry floor. The executed were shot up there and their bodies fell downwards. Even now it is not difficult to see why this place was chosen – it is remote and quiet and detached from the bustle of Barcelona.
It is a very sad place, of course. When one dwells for any length of time on those who breathed their last here, one cannot escape the sadness that defeat in the Civil War heralded. For many individuals, this place was a lonely, ugly end to years of struggle and vision.
At the same time the “Quarry grave’ today is quite welcoming. It has to be kept in mind that this is one of the few memorials in Spain to the Left and republican cause. It is beautifully arranged and maintained. The floor of the quarry was evened out and landscaped; there are trees and shrubs and the grass is green (unusual in Spain) and well maintained. Different aspects of the Civil War are marked here by different memorials. Given that this is Catalonia there is a special place reserved for Luis Companys, who was buried here until his family reclaimed his body. There are memorials to the guerillas who fought Franco; there is also a memorial to the Holocaust victims; there are numerous others too.
At the very back, at the base of the cliff, are a series of randomly placed individuals plaques. Like miniature tombstones these bear testimony to the grave site of the fallen. Some have the names of individuals written on them, while others are from memorial committees set up to remember the various contingents who went to Spain in 1936 to help with the fight against Franco and international fascism.
Related Articles
- Review: Death In El Valle and Franco’s Victims (kfdoyle.wordpress.com)
- Getting To Barcelona’s El Fossar de la Pedrera (kfdoyle.wordpress.com)
- Anarchism In Action
- The Freedom To Succeed
Getting To Barcelona’s El Fossar de la Pedrera
El Fossar de la Pedrera is one of the major memorials to those who fought fascism in Spain. Specifically dedicated to the repression and reprisals carried out by Franco in the Barcelona region, it is nonetheless symbolic of the broader struggle against the dictatorship and the Right which culminated in the Civil War from 1936-39. One of the most important aspects of the memorial it that it also remembers those who died at Franco’s hands after the Civil War had ended. Franco’s revenge – as is more widely appreciated now – was thorough and merciless and El Fossar de la Pedrera bears witness to this. 
Despite its importance, El Fossar de la Pedrera can be difficult to find. It is located to the south of Barcelona’s centre, in a remote corner of Montjuic Cemetery. Although the Barcelona Tourist Office didn’t deny its existence when I asked for their help, they did seem, generally, disinterested in my quest. This is quite extraordinary given the memorial’s quality and its importance in the light of all that has since transpired. In any other country El Fossar de la Pedrera would be given its due prominence. Not so in Spain or Catalonia today.
A good map of the greater Barcelona area is essential if you want to find and visit El Fossar de la Pedrera. This is because even around and near the memorial there are few signs indicating where the memorial is or that it even exists. In fact the opposite is the case: the further away you are the more signs there are; close at hand they vanish! In any case I used the current Michelin map and the memorial is clearly marked on it, on the south side of Montjuic Park.
Walking
From the Montjuic Castle, it is a 45 minute walk at least. There is some interesting places along the way – views of the Olympic Village and of Montjuic Cemetery from the north side. Directions are as follows. Make you way from the Castle down onto Carrer del Foc. Foc is a main road and it can be busy. Walking towards the direction of the Olympic Village (away from the city centre) keep on this road regardless. You pass the Olympic Village on your right and the road winds and generally goes down hill; on your left you pass views of Montjuic Cemetery (or Cemenetiri del Sud Oust) – Barcelona’s largest and most enigmatic cemetery. You arive at a main junction – a roundabout – and keep to the immediate left on Foc (still going in the direction away from the centre of town.) After about 30 minutes (from setting out) you pass a sport’s complex and pool on your left side. You are now leaving the Montjuic park area and returning to a generally built up area. At the junction with Carrer dels Ferrorcarrils Catalans, you take a left and head generally down in the direct of the port area; there are light industry businesses on your right side. The promontory hill on which the cemetery is located comes into view on your left once more and you are passing just at the side of it. You come a junction where there is a small narrow supply road going uphill. Although this leads to El Fossar de la Pedrera, this gate is normally locked, it seems. Carry on further. A short distance on, you come to another small junction. A narrow road splits off Carrer dels Ferrorcarrils Catalans. This is Carrer de la Mare de Deu de Port and it travels along the side of the imposing wall of the cemetery and parallel to Carrer del Ferrorcarrils Catalans. There is an open green space between the two roads. Walk down to the main gate of the cemetery which is now in view; you can’t miss it as it is the only way in around this area. Once you enter the gate, take an immediate sharp left. You will see a sign along this road: Itinari Combatin. Follow the directions of this sign – along the narrow road which climbs very gradually. There are graves and other memorials on both sides. You finally reach a very sharp turn and this is where the entrance is to El Fossar de la Pedrera.
Walking and bus
There is a free bus map to Barcelona. The service is excellent and not too expensive. Plenty of buses go in the direction Montjuic and Zona Franca which is where you want. Bus No 9 which you can get at Pl Catalunya will take you all the ways to Passeig de la Zona Franca. You can get off either at the last stop or just before the end where it crosses Carrer del Foc. When you find the junction between Carrer del Foc and Passeig de la Zona Franca, take a right (as if heading for Montjuic). You will now come to Carrer del Ferrorcarrils Catalans – see above – and you can make your way from here to the memorial site following the instructions above. For the return journey: when you leave the cemetery make you way up Carrer del Ferrorcarrils Catalans to where it joins Carrer del Foc. At this junction take a left and go along to Passeig de la Zona Franca. You can take the No 9 here once more into the centre.
Taxi
If you can manage it, a taxi all the way to the cemetery entrance on Carrer del Ferrorcarrils Catalans is also a great way to save yourself time. It is important to specify to the driver exactly what entrance into Montjuic Cemetery you need. In this case the best method is to say what road is nearest and that is Carrer del Ferrorcarrils Catalans. Once you get inside the gate, follow the directions once more as above.
Related Articles
- For more on Barcelona and the Civil War see here.
Franco’s Victims and ‘culture of terror’ in Spain
I met CNT activist Manuel Garcia at this year’s Dublin Anarchist Bookfair where he was speaking about the CNT’s successes in organising workers in the Andalucía region. The anarchist movement in Spain is now in the process of rebuilding its influence among workers and the efforts of activists such as Manuel is central to the success that they are having. On this occasion I wanted to speak to Manuel about the legacy of the Franco dictatorship. (Translation for this interview was kindly provided by José Antonio Gutiérrez Danton.)
KD: The talk you gave just now was excellent. But I want to ask you about a different, though connected, struggle that is ongoing throughout Spain at this present time. This is what is known as the movement for the recovery of historical memory. What can you tell me about this?
MG: As you know the situation on July 19th 1936 was different in different areas of Spain. In many places the people rose up and the revolution triumphed. But in Andalucía the army had the upper hand very early on. So, in effect, in much of Andalucía the people were free for only a very short time. So you cannot properly speak of a civil war in the region. Rather, from the outset, there was a massive act of repression. When the coup happened, within one week, almost the entire region of Andalucía was in the control of the Nationalist troops – that is the Francoist troops that were coming across from Morocco. The truth is that tens of thousands of people died immediately at their hands.
KD: In Andalucía where was the resistance successful?
MG: There was some armed resistance in the mountains of Huelva and in Seville itself but in most places thousands of people were summarily executed. They had no guns in their hands. In the east of Andalucía, the resistance to Franco lasted the longest – around Almeria and that region. But here the repression when it came was even harsher. There is a particularly infamous event that is well documented. As people were fleeing from the Malaga area towards Almeria, after the collapse of the front there, thousands and thousand died on the roads just trying to get refuge. They were bombed and shot down from the skies. It was a slaughter.
KD: What happened once Franco had won the Civil War?
MG: In fact even when the Franco’s dictatorship had won they still considered the situation to be one of war and a veritable war was waged against the workers. In political and cultural terms it was waged with the purpose of annihilating any vestige of resistance. The 40s and the 50s were very harsh years. In other words then we are not only talking about people who were annihilated during this mass initial repression but we are talking about the thousands who were executed later on.
KD: What sort of numbers are we talking about?
MG: It is very hard to know how many died. There is no full record as such. And many of the executions were carried out summarily. And not just by the authorities but often just by the local boss or landowner. This is something of interest to the movement for the recovery of historical memory now. They are trying to piece together exactly what happened. There is a website called ‘We Want All The Names’ which is trying to get the name of each and every person who was executed. It wants to place a short biog with each name to record the situation of all those who suffered repression. This is a job that is being carried out in a very local way.
KD: Is the movement led by families and relatives or by political activists?
MG: Both. This effort is being driven by militants of the left but also in many many cases by relatives. The most important thing for many involved is actually to recover the bodies of the victims and give them a proper dignified burial.
KD: How has the anarchist movement related to his process and movement?
MG: Anarchists are very involved with this movement. As you know anarchism was a very big movement in the lead up to July 1936 and in particular the anarchist oriented union – the CNT – was a key organisation in the revolution. Furthermore the unions and the union movement itself were the main targets of the repression. And it’s fair to say that the CNT in particular was targeted. So we are very involved with the movement to recover historical memory. But not only in the sense of identifying the victims and what happened in this and that situation. As anarchists we are also involved in order to bring awareness on the social structures created and fostered by the dictatorship. What we are talking about here is specifically the culture of fear, of terror that has survived the dictatorship and that is alive in Spain today. There is still a real fear about getting involved in struggles because of the culture of terror that the Franco regime imbedded in society. This fear is alive and it is important to challenge it. So the movement to recovery memory also has an important role to play in addressing this big issue.
KD: It is a very difficult process to go through but necessary? Is that so?
MG: Yes, that is how it is. But it is very necessary because thirty years on from the end of the dictatorship many people who suffered repression are still afraid to speak. And that in part is because repression became a taboo subject for many families. This of course is what the dictatorship wanted. The repression that occurred was very effective in the sense that whole families were criminalised and stigmatised by the regime and the authorities. And this, in many cases, had the effect that the regime desired.
KD: Can you give an example?
MG: Well instead of opposing the regime some people reacted against the Left saying ‘My family was killed because of those ideas (i.e. the ideas of anarchism say)’. And then they often tried to rationalise the situation – the tragedies that had been visited on their families – by saying, ‘Oh look my father was not an anarchist or was not a communist. He was just a good chap and he was killed by mistake.’ So in many cases the response was what the Franco regime wanted deep down: people shied away at a very close level from some of the tragic events that happened around them.
KD: So the present upsurge in efforts to identify victims is a challenge to that?
MG: Yes, in that sense it is very good for Spanish society. And of course it is also very good for people as individuals. Many are finding out their family history for the first time. For example they discover that their grandfather was a militant with the CNT. The family lore may provided some information for example that their grandfather was ‘unusual’ and ‘had never got married but had a family’ or stuff like that. But by looking more closely and delving into the past they discover that say this grandfather had a CNT card. This gives people an understanding of what happened. So they find out the politics of their own family – that they may have been anarchists, communists or republicans – and that there was a reason for those things that may have happened to their families during the time of the dictatorship.
KD: How has the Spanish state reacted to this movement?
MG: There is a law of historical memory. But it is a very restrictive and now they are not even implementing it. So in most cases the work that has been done so far has been done by people acting as individuals. In fact in over 90% of cases it has been down to individual efforts that the graves of victims have been found. And a further example of the opposition in the Spanish state is the prosecution of Judge Garcon who is standing trial now. And for us as anarchist, our view is that this opposition is proof that the current society is in many ways the direct heir of the Franco dictatorship.
KD: The process of recovery memory has accelerated over the last while. Do you have a view as to why this is so?
MG: It’s a complicated matter. The CNT and all sections of the revolutionary left since the democratic opening at the end of the formal dictatorship in 1975 have been fighting for a social memory in order to purge the state apparatus – the judiciary and the police, the military – of fascist elements. But also in order to create awareness of what forty years of dictatorship has meant and what been its effect over ordinary people. For example we have argued that it is very important to rehabilitate the memories of those who resisted not just during the Civil War but actually after. Until recently many of those who opposed the dictatorship were considered as brigands and nothing more. Now the process of finding out what really went on is well underway.
KD: Many thanks for time comrades and my thanks to our fine translator.
Liberty Hall, Dublin May 2010.
Review: Death In El Valle and Franco’s Victims
I came across Death In El Valle while researching the work of the Association For the Recovery of Historical Memory .
The ARMH has been collecting information about the victims of Franco’s Spain since its foundation in 2000. It has played a major role in identifying many mass execution sites and has instituted legal moves to have these sites excavated and the remains of those found identified and given proper burials. It is safe to say that their work has gone a long way towards uncovering the real horror that was Franco’s Spain.
Death In El Valle is a documentary, in Spanish and English, by US photographer CM Hardt about the particular circumstances of her grandfather’s death. CM Hardt’s was born in the United States of Spanish parents. She returned to Spain over the years with her parents to see her grandmother and her wider extended family. It was via these visits that she heard about the death of her grandfather whom, it seems, was involved in the resistance movement that lived on in Spain well after the Civil War itself had ended. Intrigued she made inquiries and learned that her grandfather was betrayed by a local villager and died not long after his arrest. However she wasn’t able to find out much more than that.
The documentary is a record of her journey to uncover the truth. Gradually she finds out exactly what happened, how and, for the most part, why. She is particularly interested – naturally enough – in who might have betrayed her grandfather and a share of the documentary focuses on finding out more about this – to no real avail. Fingers are pointed and rumours abound but there is no definitive answer. Instead, Hardt discovers the name of Guardia Civil officer who was present on the night her grandfather was murdered. It emerges that it was an extra judicial execution. Her grandfather was told to run and then shot for trying to escape.
Franco's Victims
Franco’s Spain and present, modern-day Spain collide in the meeting between Hardt and the now retired policeman. Like many Spaniards this policeman lives in an apartment block in a busy residential area. He could be any man that you meet anywhere in Spain except that he has an ugly past to hide. At first, he is forthcoming about the general events of that night. He is a bit surprised, it must be said, to be confronted by the victim’s granddaughter. But as Hardt attempts to pry further, to find out more, he clams up. Subsequently, he refuses to meet her again.
Death In El Valle is let down by its narrow focus. The context of what was really at stake in Spain during the Civil War is not explored. True, many people know about the general outline of the Civil War and why it happened, but there is no wider exploration of what forces were at play. We are left with the very nebulous description – beloved of the middle stream – that the Spanish Civil War was about ‘saving democracy’. In fact it was a great deal more. See here for more. Properly speaking the Civil War and its aftermath was about defeating a revolution – regarded by many as perhaps the most thoroughgoing social revolution ever seen on this planet. In response Franco and his forces attempted to ‘eradicate’ the left (across the spectrum). It was a ferocious and unforgiving assault – the after effects of which are still being felt.
Nonetheless Death In El Valle is engaging and provocative. It is well produced and moving: the fact that it is a record of a real journey of investigation gives it an extra edge. It is disturbing too though. As anyone who has attempted this sort of thing will testify, unearthing the past seems like a straightforward quest until one actually goes about it. The realities of Franco’s Spain adds a whole other dimension of difficulty to Hardt’s endeavour. As Death In El Valle amply shows, today in Spain, there are many who are fearful of that time and what they did to survive . There are also plenty of others who just want to forget the period and how awful it was.
For further information on both the documentary and its director, as well as information on how to acquire a copy of the DVD, see the links above. Promotional clips from Death In El Valle are here
Kevin Doyle Blog 